About Me

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N Las Vegas, NV, United States
I have been working on homes and the sort almost my whole life, I'm no expert, who is? I can walk you through that tile repair, garbage disposal and painting. The list is long, but not impossible! Lets get to it. Email Questions or Ideas to me at lvrepairguy@gmail.com

SEABEES:

"If it can't be done, We can do it".
"If it's Impossible, it'll just take us a little longer"!

Monday, November 30, 2009

Tile Repair Part 1

Tile:
Chipped, Broken, Missing, cracked or a hollow sound?
I'll walk you through this.
Now remember this is one of the more expensive repairs around the house.You need an assortment of tools. (See photo 1).→
The hollow sound is because the adhesive didn't bond with the floor/tile. Tap on the tile it will sound hollow! If it's cracked this could be an additional headache, most likely the floor has a crack also. This must be fixed prior to setting any new tiles, they will just crack again. You need to patch the floor over the crack w/ mesh tape
(See Photo) 2
Use a little thinset on the floor and spread over the tape. This should prevent any cracks down the road.
1st: Do you have the original tiles for replacement? I sure hope so, because it's almost impossible to find a couple of new tiles that will match. You might have to take out more tiles and create a design of sorts to make it look right. I hope not, normally when tile is set the 1st time they leave a couple of tiles just for this. Next would be grout, now this isn't as critical as the original tiles, it might as well be. You can match the grout down the road, but it's a little tougher, you may have to play with the color a bit to get it to match. You know a sample of this and that, kinda thing. With any luck you have some old grout laying around next to those tiles! Next would be the size and the ability to cut to size the replacement tile(s). You can rent a wet saw at the old faithful hardware store, or some Home Depots will do the cut for you if you mark off the actual cut yourself, (sorry they don't come to the house and mark it). They also make cutting boards for straight cuts, (See Photo 3) → this you have to buy. You will need a pointer, (a type of putty knife), (See photo 4)↓
spacers, measure the distance of the grout already between your existing tiles for the size. They are standard sizes, 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", etc.
If there are going to be cuts. Nippers, you know ask! (See Photo 5)→
an old bucket, (this will depend on how much repair is needed. Small job small bucket, 2 gal. Large job, 5 gal. Get a bag/box of "thin set" don't worry about the color! this is basically the glue (ask). It comes as a powder that you add water and an acrylic additive, (again ask) some thin sets come pre-mixed w/ it. A sponge, when you get in the aisle, they are always there, their yellowish-orange, rubber gloves, no, not the ones that are surgical, the kind your mom washed the dishes in.
Get a rubber"float" this is used for grouting, (photo 6)↓
and knee pads, they aren't critical, but save your knees,(you can use the seat pad you take to the ball game, or a thick towel). Next how big is the tile?
We'll start with the floor repair.
You'll need a notched trowel for larger jobs,(photo 7)→
but for a couple of tiles you can use the pointer.
Okay, We're ready to start.
1st: Get a hammer, PLEASE get safety glasses , and an old towel, rag, etc. Lay the rag over the tile and smack it in the center w/ the hammer, not enough to send a nail through a wall, but hard enough to break the tile.Remove the towel is it cracked? Good, now remove the big pieces carefully, they might be sharp on the edge. Try to not break any areas that are "cuts". The part that might go under the door frame, dishwasher etc. This will save some time later. Get all the pieces out using the pointer as a scraper. Be careful not to disturb the surrounding tiles (you know how neighbor tiles can get)! It must be really clean and free of any stuff. A vacuum comes in handy here (be sure and get the pieces that flew away from the work area) or ouch! later. Scrape the old grout off the floor (pointer again) see how handy that tool is! When the floor is clean take the sponge and a clean bucket of water and wipe out the area, Let this set until it's dry. Do all tiles at the same time, When we start the reset, you don't want to stop to pop another tile. Check for hollow ones also. Some say you can use an oil based paint to just color the chip. Come on, We're gonna do this right! Next resetting. See ya' then!

Tile Repair Part 2

Okay, the area is clean, Now wipe it again with the sponge, I know, but I want it really clean. Make any cuts before proceeding, ( See tile repair part 1). Tile cutting is a little tricky, but can be done w/ some help.
These are just general types of cuts, E-mail me with difficult ones. I can photo you through these. Use the nippers (photo 3). →
for any uneven cuts, (∟←) like this. In the corner could be a chunk left from the saw. Sand the entire edge to get it kinda smooth, they make a stone for this too, (but you can use a smooth file). Mix a little thin set and acrylic adhesive, pour a little adhesive in 1st, maybe a cup, (cuts down on dust) Don't breath this or the thin set dust in! Better to mix it outside in the air. If it's a small job, (a few tiles) you can use the pointer, (there it is again)! Now add some thin set about 6 cups, to get a creamy mixture, like frosting, add some water for consistency, the pointer should stand up like in chili. Not to thin /thick kinda thing. Make enough to do the entire job. This takes a little thinking not to mix to much or to little. Adjust as needed.
If it's a lot of tiles 6-7 or more, you might think about renting a 1/2" drive drill w/ side handle and the "paddle". Because the amount of mortar will be more, and the mixing will be a pain.
(see photo 4) →
Good, now "butter" the back of the tile, like toast don't be shy, get enough on there, trust me by the 2nd tile you'll know how much. set the tile in, push down and run your hand over it and the surrounding tiles to make sure their the same height. See you put to much mortar in, pop the tile and remove some. If you have a little that leaked out the sides use the pointer to clean the inside edge. or a small screw driver works. Don't forget to clean the screw driver. Add the spacers 1 on each side in the middle to "square up" the tile so it's even all the way around. You can also put a spacer in the corners to adjust spacing, (→ ∟). Do this for all tiles until down. Tape off the area you just did so's not to step on them! ↑ We're down for today, as the tiles need to set. Clean the bucket and all the tools you used, Reminder ♫ they will last longer!
Next we'll grout!

Tile Repair Part 3

Okay, the tiles are set and the thin set hard.
1st, remove the spacers with needle nose pliers, be careful not to chip that tile you just replaced! Wipe all the tiles with clean water. Again, cleanliness is next to... But enough of the philosophy lesson, that's a different blog. We're ready to grout. Mix enough grout w/ water to do the whole job (you can add some latex additive here). Mix almost as thick as the thin set. Get the float
and blop some grout on the tiles(s), spread it around making sure to fill in the spaces between the tiles, this is important! Let it set a little, then get the float and clean up any excess you have, put this back in the bucket. Only do a few tiles at a time, you don't want the grout drying (if it does start, add some water). Keep cleaning until all the excess grout is gone, use the sponge to make the level of grout in between appear as the existing grout. This can be done by using a slightly wet sponge and working it in the spaces. The tiles should look clean and wet. After a while they will cloud up a little ( drying), a clean rag or better yet, some cheesecloth will solve this. Wait until completely dry and wipe them off. It might take a couple of passes to get them clean. Now here some pros use a sealant (after the grout is dry). Your call. The grout is going to stain down the road anyway, even w/ the sealant. If it's light colored grout it's probably a different color/shade anyhow. It will match as the tile gets walked on and mopped. Again stay off tiles until dry.
Clean up like usual, blah, blah. Next wall tile. See ya'

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Fix It Tips

Duct Tape:
Can't say enough about it, always keep a roll on hand. This is a real lifesaver! It can put a temp. fix on almost anything. Put a roll in your car, it works until you can get it done right. Although I don't know how long the lifespan is in below freezing weather. I do know it stops leaks! Holds mufflers on, repairs that tear, even works as a band-aid™.

Friday, November 27, 2009

Holiday Lights Part 1

Well, it's getting around Christmas time and you thought I wouldn't have a project for you. There's lights to hang, trees to put up, etc. Preparation and the ability to untangle those lights from last year is the key to this. I know my friend, been there done that. But behold I learned, so can you! I always start looking outside to see the placement of the lights and assorted stuff for the lawn. Of course the logistics of wiring them all together w/o starting a fire, (that's why they make fire pits), is always something we put off. Usually until another voice is heard from! Well, it's time. If you live where it snows, I feel for you. But we must tread on.
1st, We need a plan of attack, try not to approach this like Chevy Chase in his movies. We need something to hang the lights from the gutters, eaves, fascia board (flat wood that covers the eaves), under the roof tiles. I like to use a hanger that doesn't leave a mark or hole, split wood, bent gutter etc. (Home Depot™ & Walmart™) Check outdoor lighting section. They make a plastic type of hook for this, it works on just about everything you hang up there. Good, are they in a ball, knot, wrapped around from last year? We need to untangle them, find the 2 ends and lay them in opposite directions. Now start the process, weaving and pulling and stretching you know the drill! 1st cup of nog down. they should be free of distress and knots. Now we can proceed. Find your outdoor outlets and place the strings (male side) near there. The female side is for plugging multiple strings together. See we've already started, lay off the egg nog until this project is well in hand. If you don't have outdoor plugs get one of those outdoor plugs that you can plug multiple strings into. Along w/ this use only outdoor extension cords. Of course their UL approved, aren't they all? I put a couple of the hooks at the beginning of the string to hold them up until I can stretch the rest over the span of the gutter. Unless you have help, this works pretty good. Now continue, adding the hooks as you go, You did check them 1st? okay, plug them in before you hang them! They all work? Make sure you leave the end to plug in, closest to the plug you're going to use, even if their to short we can add an extension cord here. I try to run them as to where they are going to go in the garage at that one plug you have, here you want to put the timer, . Pretty easy huh? Okay, that went smooth and your done with the upper stuff, you know Santa, Reindeer, Stars, whatever else you put on the roof or just up on the wall. If we're firmly on the ground the hard stuff is done and we can celebrate w/ more nog! Do the same w/ your ground fixtures so the cords end up at the outdoor plug again. You should now have all the lights done, the lawn stuff and one cord coming from the outdoor plug to the timer. Set the timer, Auto on/off it makes it a lot easier for the late night show you intend to do! If you have outdoor plugs just get a timer. Plug the timer into the plug that will suck all the energy of the neighborhood. Everything works! Great go finish off the nog, you were saving for this moment. Leave the timer turned on to automatically turn on and off the lights. See now you don't have to go out there and do the old 20th century on/off routine. Or call that pro! They really do have people who hang lights! Next, the dreaded Christmas tree. I will show you later how to wrap up everything so that next year this is a breeze! See Ya

Holiday Lights Part 2

Christmas Tree:
Now you might be saying the BAH! Humbug term.
Well, don't despair the repair guy is there, Yeah, right!
By now you should have Thanksgiving cleaned up and had that additional snack.
I have a simple way to get it up and ready. We already know about the untangling thing, so I hope you read my last post for this. Think of it as your pop quiz on lights.
1st: Get the tree, real, fake we'll do each one. I get the fake, my wife handles the candles for the smell. KEEP them away from the tree!
I also put a small open eye hook in the wall behind the tree so the cats won't bring down the whole thing. Put it at the top where the tree will be tallest in the wall, and loop fishing line around it, then put the same line (other end) at the top of the tree, loop around the top about 2' down. Dog? Real tree? Watch them they like trees too! But not for knocking down!!
Fake, 1st put it together, easy enough, if you remember the way you did it last year. 1st year of fake? How come you didn't buy it last year when they were 1/2 price after x-mas? You did, great, your learning. Follow the instructions and save the twist ties! They also sell w/ the lights already on, sometimes life is to easy! Proper storage is invaluable. Now get those lights out and test them. They work, (See last post on this). I string them by the way the tree will be presented, meaning in the corner a half wrap works. Start by going to the top of the tree, do you have a tree topper? put it up! plug it into the 1st string, (they sell outlets that let you put the outlet in the middle of the tree). Attach your lights to this, or use the old method of hiding the cord in the tree. Begin by going up from the inside to get the end of the string, bring the lights out from here. Use the half wrap method of going around the tree until the string runs out. Attach string 2, again the same way. Do this for about 2 strings (depending on the amount of lights per string. When you get about 2-3' down, start using the half wrap. W/O going all the way around, (cover the front good, and the back loop towards the back around to the front around to the other side). Check outside the window for appearance. Continue until your out of lights (now would be a good time to get more) or the tree is wrapped. Center of room total wrap. Start the same way but instead of half wrap, totally wrap the tree around until the same result, (no more lights) or your done.
Next the ornaments, get the kids! Have them put up the unbreakable ones. Now that the lower half is done, continue up the tree placing them where there are gaps. Step back take a look, do you see a gap still? Fill it! Look again, don't forget the back, we have a name for the heavy ornaments, we call them "sinkers" we all have them, but they sag the branch upon hanging. Put these on the branch that is thicker than most of the others.
Real: Get a bag, Home Depot™, Walmart™ they sell them and are disposable,(your call) that you put at the bottom of the tree for later removal of the tree.
Now for the tinsel, (ugh)! I don't use this on fake trees because it's a mess next year. trust me, been there! Better to use garland, popcorn, beads, ribbon etc. Some use feathers, or something exotic. Something removable, Wrap as lights, half, total wrap etc.
Now get some pine cones and add them for scent. Now the tree skirt, come on you really don't need help on this do you? they also sell timers and on/off switches for indoor use, Hmm... At this point. I hope you don't have a cat, they love trees! If you do, have fun putting up the ornaments, garland, pine cones, lights, etc again. How does it look? Great, send me a picture! Have a Merry one this year! See Ya'

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Holidays

Turkey day, Football, Family, well 2 out of 3 ain't bad. I am thankful my wife has hung around for all these years. Who would've thought! The fact that I lived this long, again same thought. My friends who also hung around, I didn't say they were, you know. The things I've accomplished, and the things I still have to do. Finally, thank you Las Vegas. So my new friends, have a Happy Thanksgiving! The only thing you should be doing today is turkey and football x 3, Take the over, ± Now, take the day off and have a libation on me! We'll get back to the fixing things tomorrow.
Repair Guy

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Thermostat

Thermostat:
Brrr...
It must be time to check this.
This is a relatively easy replacement.
What kind do you have now, dial, electronic w/ LED/LCD readout?
See Photo 1 →
No matter, we can change out either. (Note): If you live somewhere that the power co. will replace and install it, like Las Vegas, sometimes free! Have them do it, they normally will ask you if they can also install a power saver that shuts off the air conditioner during the summer. See Photo 1A↓
Ask about this. Call them, it can't hurt.
1st, We'll start with the easy one. LED/LCD readout.
I would suggest getting an LED-LCD readout to save some energy, (aka: electric bill). Most likely the one you have isn't working properly or you just want to upgrade. Look at the existing one to see where the screws that attach it to the wall are.
See Photo 2→

Usually under the plastic cover, or under the dial. You'll need to pop this off to get underneath. There might be a small prong type thing attaching the front-plate to the back-plate.
Photo 2↑



See Photo 3→
Be careful not to break the prongs, pull out slow and easy. Next remove the battery (if it has one). See the wires or a little black rectangular box? Good, Now we're ready for removal.
Unscrew it to detach the plate from the wall, you will see wires on the backside that are color coded. You might need to loosen the little screws See Photo4↓
and insert the wires from the backside of the wall plate. Match these wires to the new one you have in hand. Y,C,R,G,W,O. Disconnect the wires from existing and connect the wires to the new one, This process should be the same with either the led, or old rotary dial type, (when was your house built)? Some will require you to unscrew the little screws on the front part of the back-plate to install the wires (from the back side). See Photo 4→
Re-tighten the screws, I suggest you do one screw at a time to hold each in place. They should be relatively the same or the little book that came with it will show you the diagram for connection. Now screw it back on the wall using the existing holes. Pretty simple, huh? Now comes the fun part of setting the new one.
See Ya' Then

Thermostat

So you got it in, good now lets set it and forget it.
1st: Does it work? So far so good.When setting normally you have some choices to make, one is the daily setting. See Photo →
Time, most of the new ones set this automatically. If not look inside the door (if it has one), and set the time to actual + am or pm.
Wake, What time do you get up? When you know set the program to this, EX. 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 am. You get up at 6 and leave by 7. Simple enough.
Day, Set this to the time no one is home and the house can be either colder or hotter depending what season your in. EX. 7:15 am to 4:00 pm. The same process as wake.
Evening, This is when your going to be home the longest period before bed. EX. 4:15 pm to 10:00 pm. Set same as before.
Sleep, When your in bed and can set it to colder or warmer, again depending on the season. EX. 10:15 pm to 6:00 am. Your now done setting the daily. Do this for every day of the work week.
Weekends, This only has a couple of settings. wake and sleep. EX. 6:00 am to 10:00 pm.
Sleep, Same as wake, EX. 10:00 pm to 6:00 am. Do this for sat. and sun. your done, pretty easy huh? Set the program to Auto. Close the little door and don't open it again!
From here you use the 2 buttons to adjust as needed. to cold, press the top button for more heat, hot, press the lower button for air.
The newer thermostats will walk you through the set up process
See Photo→

You also have the choice of the "hold" button inside the door, this will override your settings until you press it again to release. This doesn't affect the permanent settings you programmed
in.
Some thermostats come w/ the feature of "clean filter", on this you push the rest filter every time you clean the filter and replace it. Again newer ones also have "copy previous day" feature, this is a step saver when you program it.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Money Savers

Own your home? Don't forget to save all the receipts. Categorize them as: Maintenance, Repair, and Improvement. Repair and maint. use every year on your tax returns. Improvement are for when you sell. then you can use them. Don't own, no problem! You can still use them as receipts to give your landlord for out of pocket expenses, use them monthly.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Fix It Tips

Got an old paint brush that just doesn't work well anymore? Save it as a duster! You'd be surprised how many things you can dust with it.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Money Savers

Got a cat? Save that litter container! It works just as well as a 5 gal. bucket for painting, or other uses. Including holding water.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Fix It Tips

Tired of dragging out that ladder every time a light bulb burns out? They have a tool for that! Get it at your hardware store. It's a light bulb pole. Buy the deluxe one, You'll know it by the color (yellow) it has all the attachments you probably need. It should be around $20.00.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Plumbing Tank and Bowl

Tank and Bowl:
Bummer, by now you most likely have water everywhere! Turn off the water supply, (see Plumbing part 1). This will stop the leak. If there is any water in the bowl flush to remove the water, disconnect the water supply, (prt. 1 again) put a rag on the floor it might drip. Get that friend again and see (part 2). Don't take this part w/ you, it's heavy and you don't want to look like your new at this. Take a photo instead, I just love the new digital cameras! Now comes decision time. How much to spend on a new one, Sorry that's your call. The hardware store will have a comparison chart to help with this, make sure the new one comes with a new wax ring, (your gonna need it). Your home? Good, Take it out of the box and inspect for cracks and flaws. Reverse the order of the removal and your done! Call the pro if your unsure about this, these things are expensive depending on which type you get. Next sinks! See Ya'

Friday, November 13, 2009

Plumbing Toilet Lid

The Lid is cracked:
It's probably pinching your underside. Or it's visible to the naked eye.
There are 2 screws that hold it on. You'll need a large screwdriver. Lift the little flaps and you can see the screws. Loosen them until the part (looks like a circle w/ a lip) releases from the bottom under the bowl. Remove the old lid. Determine if your lid is standard or elongated, you need the same type. Take it with you if unsure, ( they have garbage cans too)! Compare the new lid to the old one for the same type. The price will vary depending on how much comfort you want, and the guarantee. Your home again? good, put the new lid on and replace the screws, you might need to hold the one part underneath the bowl until it catches. Your done. No pro needed here! See Ya'

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Plumbing Part 1

"The Toilet"
Never leave home w/o it, (working)!
So your having a problem with it. No surprise, with all we put down them (toys, golf balls etc.) What did you expect?
1st:
Does it leak? Okay where? The floor at the base, bottom under the tank, shooting out of the top when you open it to locate that running water sound, overflow!!
We'' ll cover these 1st.
The base,
Does it wiggle when you give it a really slight push side to side? okay, check the floor bolts they could be loose. No huh, it's never that easy. If this doesn't fix it, you could have a bad "wax ring". This involves removing the bowl and tank. Get a friend, that thing is heavy! 1st drain it, this is the easy part. Turn off the water supply, (under the tank on the wall) it looks like a valve, done? Now flush the toilet, it will drain but won't refill. Now take a little less than a 1/2 gal. of water and pour it into the bowl, this should get rid of any water left. Unscrew the line from bottom of tank. put a bowl under it, you might get a little water from here, Good, we're ready to remove the floor bolts, you can use a ratchet, open/closed end wrench, or if nothing else works pliers or adjustable wrench. Wiggle the bowl to loosen, it should come free fairly easily. Tilt it forward. Get that friend and lift the bowl & tank off the floor out of the way. You should now see, what appears to be a nasty waxy mess at the hole in the floor. Scrape off the old ring with a flat stick, that paint stirrer you got w/ the paint you bought earlier. Remove the black or white plastic piece inside the hole. Look to see if the "flange"(metal part holding the bolts to the floor) is slightly elevated, small gap btwn. floor & flange. Go to the store and buy wax ring, their fairly universal in size, get the one w/ the sleeve if your "flange" is slightly elevated. W/O the sleeve, if it's flush w/ the floor, Take a photo of the floor bolts (reassembly made easy). Remove all plastic, wrapping etc. from new ring, put it where the old one went, (center it), make sure you can still see the bolts & they point up. Okay, now set the bowl/tank on the new ring, make sure the bolts are there thru the holes on base, push down on it to get it to "seat" wiggle it a bit and push down until it sits. You might have to push down strongly. It shouldn't be more than an 1/8"- 1/4" off the floor now. Add the nuts you removed earlier. tighten them until the bowl seats okay. You shouldn't see a gap on the floor. Tighten a little more if you do. now make sure the bowl/tank is secure, (no movement, wiggly etc.) Tighten a little more. Reattach the hose to the bottom. Now caulk around the base for a cleaner look, normally white, (match your floor color). Cool your done! Next, bottom under the tank. See Ya'

Plumbing Part 2

The tank:
It leaks under the tank.
Look for water on floor below tank.
Check your fittings under the tank to make sure they are tight. This should do it, if not check the fittings inside the tank. 1st Turn off water supply, (see part 1). Leave lid off and turn on valve. Refill the water. No leak now? good you're done. Water shooting out of top of those plastic pieces. (see part 3). see ya' then.

Plumbing Part 3

Leaks from up top:
Okay, we've determined the prior attempts aren't the problem, now let's do the rest!
It's shooting water out of the top of the plastic pipe. Try turning the little screw at the top of the pipe on the left. Did this stop the water, turn it the other way? No, lets continue. Look to see if the flapper on the bottom is leaking, push down on the flapper ( I know your hand will get wet, the water is clean!) see if this stops the leaking. If so, you found the problem. Replace the flapper by removing it from the 2 sides, take it with you. Go to the hardware store and get a new one, check for the same size or buy a universal one. Okay, still got the problem. Most likely the 2 pipes aren't any good anymore. Buy the one piece (left) or the whole kit, try to match what you have (ball and cock etc.) don't laugh that's what it's called! Depends on the problem. Sometimes it's easier to buy the whole thing, then you know all the parts are new. Turn off the water, flush, and disconnect from bottom. (see Plumbing part 3). Take the old parts out, ( prt. 3 again) the left one will lift from the inside, and where the little tube connects to the hole on right. Okay, (if buying the whole kit), the right one will disconnect from the inside. Lift the flapper to get at the ring that holds the right piece in place, loosen this above the rubber washer. Removal is from the inside again. Follow the instructions that came with the new part for adjustments. Reconnect the water supply, turn on the water. Your done! See Ya'

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Fix It Tips

Are you planning on replacing your carpet, flooring soon? Now is the perfect time to think about running all that speaker wire, telephone cords and coaxial cable under it.

Garbage Disposal part 1

Garbage Disposals: FUN, FUN, FUN!
Messy but easy. 1st Unplug it!
Now the fun part, It's probably full of #%^#?! right? Please, unplug it! Put your hand in the hole in the sink and feel for junk, (spoon, fork, your kids toy that's been missing, etc.). Get the junk out of it. Get the key ( "s" shaped hex tool), it's in the drawer with the junk! Put it in the center spot (square hole) underneath. Turn it back and forth. Use complete rotations. This should loosen it. Plug it in. That didn't work huh? Okay, now push the reset button (bottom on the edge) it's small look for it. Still nothing? Turn the hex key again, and push the reset button. Just our luck! You need a new one, at this point you might have noticed it just buzzes when on. Get the model # and h.p. size (1/2, 1/4, etc.). Shop!

Garbage Disposal part 2

Your back, good, Okay get a bucket, a five gal. works great. Remove all the cleaning stuff from underneath the sink, It might get wet. We need to drain it. Again, UNPLUG IT. Take a photo 1st. Put the bucket under disposal. Remove the 2 hoses on the side, ( see photo #1)
one is a "grasp" type (open this w/channel locks) or the kind that looks like it goes on your car radiator, this one has a screw. The other is attached to the pipe from your sink.
it's threaded, unscrew it by hand, If it's not plastic, get a (monkey) plumbers wrench and Teflon tape. Use the tape to wrap around threads. There is another plastic pipe inside this one, except on non-plastic. Take the other 2 fittings that go to the other sink and loosen them also, (while it's loose check the trap and clean it). Don't forget where everything goes, see your photo. Now take off the 2 screws that hold the metal plate on. Keep the screws, (You will now experience water) Take the hex key and near the top where the disposer meets the silver ring at the top, you'll see 3 slots, (like 3 small openings, See photo #2)
this is where the key will fit. Put the "s" part in the the opening and turn a bit counter-clockwise. This should loosen the disposer, unless your in Europe, it might be clockwise than. Watch for the rest of the water, smell and %^&*#@$. Slowly lower it into the bucket. It should be drained now. Wipe up any mess and get the new one. Now is the tricky part, you need to hold it up while you get the ring to catch, be patient! Make sure it all catches. Give it a turn to hold it. now get the key again and tighten it, don't get crazy from the anger after trying to get it to catch. give it a little wiggle, is it tight? A good turn or so should do it. It's now tight. Reconnect the hoses in the reverse order from before. Don't plug it in! If all went well, your ready for the water test. Run some water to check for leaks, (get the bucket) better safe! no leaks? Perfect! Plug it in, Turn on water, then disposer and don't throw onion peels down there anymore! Throw away the old one, nobody wants it anyway. I don't know why they call it a disposal, you really can't put anything down it w/o worrying it will get stuck. Occasionally throw a lemon, lime peel down there (sink) to freshen it. If this is too much work or to tough call the pro! Time for a shower! See Ya'

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Basic Painting Enamel Pt. 1

So, you got the walls done. Now it's time to finish up by doing the doors and casings.
These are a little trickier than slobbering paint on the walls.

1st More prep, More masking, start by taping off the knobs and door catches. Now do the hinges, I find it easier to determine if the hinges are already painted. If so, why bother, paint 'em. Wrap some tape around the knob part closet to the door. If you want to take them off, fine more work now easier painting. I just leave them on. After you taped them grab the masker and wrap a little around the tape, good enough to not see any knob. Roll the paper into itself to get the excess out of the way, then add a piece of tape to the paper to close it. The door latches can be masked using a putty knife, take a piece of 1 1/2" and cover the part on the wall, using the putty knife to act as a kinda of knife, or you can just cut it with a dry wall knife to get a cleaner edge, leaving only the metal covered. Next is the part on the door, I usually just slap a piece of tape over it and cut it in later, less trim work. If you are painting both sides do both sides. If not close the door for now (check other side for kids 1st). Put some masking paper on the floor under the door to catch that nasty spillage. Okay, we're almost ready. Get some 220 sandpaper and light sand the door and edges to "scuff them up" a little. If you have damage to the door now is the time to do the repair. Get the Spackle and put a light coat over the hole or whatever the problem may be. After drying and sanding, repeat to get a smooth surface. If it's a major problem you might want to replace it. Don't worry about the top of the door, (whose gonna see it)? Sand the casings the same way, "scuffing". Repeat process of Spackle if needed. I think that's enough for now, MY wife the " wise one " of blogs told me my 1st posting was to long. So we'll just come back and finish. Anyway we have to wait for dry time on any spackling. The door is still dry I hope. See ya'

Basic Painting Enamel Pt. 2

Part 2: The painting part. Finally we're done with "prep". At this point I'm glad too.
I would suggest at this point to wipe any excess dust off the doors and casings. The cleaner the better. No bumps or "stuff" that can leave a lump after painting.
Okay the Spackle is done and dry, Now we need a decent brush and roller. The brush should be a good quality, the better, the nicer finish. Again the Purdy comes to mind, probably a 2 1/2" taper. You can also use the 1 1/2" taper. comfort, The "deuce" will also work fine for this. Take your paint and give it a good mix in the can, from bottom to top. Pour into the deuce, the roller should be a fine nap and very clean, dip into paint and roll on, (remember dip only enough to get bonnet wet). Don't use to much paint it will run a you! Okay it's rolled, do edges around knobs and the inside of where the jamb is. If you can, catch the casings at the same time. now you want to dry roll it back, this creates a stipple, this is important, it gives a smoother finish. Now cut in anything that is left, including casings. Now you want to lay off the casings, (go over again) with the brush to get that clean finish. If it all went well, your done. Give it a minute of two to set and dry roll it again. You see (real) tiny pot marks. that is ok it will dry smooth. Now the fun part again, clean up. (see clean up under basic painting, flat) You should have used water based paint, (I think that's all that available now). An environmental thing. By tomorrow the doors should look great! If not, I told you before get the pro! See Ya'

Monday, November 2, 2009

Basic Painting

When you paint, the common problems are mess, clean-up, and proper way of doing it.
1st is Prep, this is the most important step to ensure being able to use the room after your done. Remove all light switch/wall plug covers, put them in a bowl/bucket, somewhere you can clean them later and not lose. Put the screws back in the wall, less chance of losing them. tape off the exposed sockets with masking, if your going to take more than a day to complete, use the blue tape, it doesn't leave a sticky mess. All you need to do is cover the actual plug/light switch and screw, that way when you paint there won't be any "cutting in" later. Next, remove the doorstops if you can, otherwise mask them. If you are going to paint the baseboards mask along the floor as close as you can, use tape, than a masker (they sell them at any Lowe's, Home Depot etc.) get a masker at least as big as to be able to use 12"-18" paper. if your not going to paint them mask about 1/2 way down the base. Next you want to get some plastic on a roll. If it's a small job just a package of disposable 9'x12' plastic tarp is good,(it's cheaper), normally this is for a single wall or small room. with the cheaper plastic just tape it to the paper you put on top of the tape line you created. You can always buy a fabric tarp, if you intend to use it more than once. If at all possible remove all furniture in the work area. If this isn't feasible, put all furniture in the middle of the room, for small jobs this doesn't need to be covered,. Spackle all your holes, some larger holes need more than one coat of Spackle. allow to dry, sand with 60 grit, repeat until it matches existing texture,(if your hanging the same pictures back don't remove the nails) if you're painting the whole room you might want to cover the furniture with old sheets/fabric/plastic tarp or the like. Remove any ceiling fixtures, blades from ceiling fans etc.. Sometimes it's easier to just cover the ceiling items with excess plastic and tape tight to prevent paint spatters. Finally, you will cover the floor with the plastic roll, it is usually in 50' or larger rolls and around 9' across. Staple it into the base loosely, removal of the staples later becomes easier this way (only on complete room painting). Mask off a line for any handrails, (than paper), molding, or rooms that are a different color. Make note that if it is a sharp corner (90°) this step may be unnecessary. rounded edges mask a line. Use the roller a little dry, (not dripping) when you start painting to roll up to. Cover the doorknobs if painting the wall above them. Use the masker to tape a piece over the knob,(it doesn't have to be perfect). Now we're ready to paint. Decide what size roller, 7", 9", or 12". For larger jobs use at least the 9" more coverage less strokes. For smaller ones use the 7". Getting a 5 gal. bucket is the best, no more trays! If you must, get a screen that fits inside the bucket. You will also need a 2 gal. bucket for cutting and smaller jobs. You can use the paint can, but a roller won't fit inside. (mix well all like colors together), this helps with different batches of paint. Okay, you've chosen the roller, the room is masked and your ready. Put your roller in the mixed paint, Get a short extension pole to attach to the end of your roller, this makes application easier, an adjustable or one that comes apart is okay too. It should be about 3-4' long. Your brush is important also, I would recommend a "purdy" they last a long time. You have to determine what size and the type (go to WWW.purdycorp.com/catalog/brushes/). I know, they are also a tip and trick place, but why buy a DVD? If your hand is steady you might try a 2 1/2" or 3" wide taper one. This is your choice. A smaller 1 1/12" taper if your new to painting, "block brushes" (big square ones) are good for corners and cutting in ceilings, if you are painting both with the same color as the walls. Attach the roller to the pole and put in paint only far enough to get the bonnet (actual roller) full of paint, bonnets will vary depending on the type of wall. heavy texture on the wall means a heavier nap on the bonnet. Smooth walls (rare) are a thin bonnet. Run it on the screen in the bucket to get off excess paint that will only drip anyhow. Immediately put the roller on the wall and make a slight 30° movement to the upper right or left,(this depends on if your right or left handed) about 5 to 8' up. Roll and fill in the space, up right, straight down, back left 10-15° straight down again, repeat, back to where you started. This takes a little practice to do, I have faith. Repeat this until the wall is covered and isn't running paint down all over, roll hard into the corners so you don't have to cut them in later. If only doing one wall be careful not to splatter on the other walls, a slightly dry roller helps with corners. rest your roller in the paint can "trying" not let it sink all the way down,there is a lip on the roller to hook on bucket. Take off the pole. you won't need it for now and you won't trip over it either. This helps with clean up later. Now grab your brush and can, fill a little in the bottom just enough to get the brush wet(about 2-2 1/2"). Keep the brush above the Ferrule, ( metal top between brush and handle) This will help in paint from running down your hand. Tap the brush inside the can to get excess paint off. Cut the inside corners, along the base and along the ceiling. If done right this involves little paint as the roller got most of it,(the corners should still be wet) use the excess already on the wall. Slobber in the paint!
check for coverage and touch up "holidays" (missed spots on wall). rest brush in can and wait a few minutes to check again,(always check your shoe bottoms to prevent footprints everywhere other than the tarp)! take a break, and have your wife look at it for her okay! If all went well we're ready for cleanup. 1st take the brush and roller outside near a hose away from the house. leave in the 5 gal. bucket for now,leave the brush in the 2 gal.bucket (called a deuce). go back and remove the tarps, than pull the staples from the base and roll the plastic and paper into itself until you have a ball. put it in the trash. by now the walls are probably different shades, this is normal as paint dries uneven. Enamel is worse, if not scary when drying. check for "holidays" again, if your happy, remove the tape from everywhere but the base, this should dry a tad longer,(about as long as it takes to ball plastic, just enough to pull the tape and not the paint). Cut in the base very carefully! If your still happy remove the base tape. If you got a little on the floor use a putty knife and cover with rag to wipe up. I know this won't happen to you! Remove any tape and plastic, and paper from anywhere it is left. The room/wall is done! Congrats. so far! Now for tool cleanup, this is very important keep them clean and they last,(except the bonnets) I've had my rollers and brushes for some 20 years. pour all paint into original can, scrape the buckets with the brush into original can. Tap lid closed. Now clean the inside of your buckets 1st. scrape with a putty knife if needed. get them clean. Put water into the 5 about 2 gal.s push the brush up and down touching the bottom of bucket until the water is dirty throw away water, squeeze the bristles, refill, Repeat until the brush comes back clean. Spin the brush inside the bucket until the bristles are going in different directions. Now get a clean wire brush, if needed wire brush the Ferrule, remove all paint from the bristles using the wire brush until smooth( stroke all in the same direction, (down and away), and free of paint, Put brush back in cover. Now the roller. pull down the bonnet holding the metal part of the handle with opposite hand until it's about 1/3 down, (I know a little paint on the hands), rest it on the metal part on the outside of the bucket. get a hose with high pressure nozzle. holding the roller against the side away from you, spray the bonnet with the hose until it spins, going up and down on the roller until it comes back clean this takes some time to get it clean but if done right, your dry. take the roller with the bonnet still loose hang it on the side to dry. by now you are done or called a professional in. I always suggest a pro. if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, or you have a couple extra hundreds laying around. E-mail me I'm always looking for some side work! Let me know how it goes there is always room for improvement here and in your other endeavors. You are now an apprentice painter. Next doors and "casings" (molding around doors) See ya' then!