So, you got the walls done. Now it's time to finish up by doing the doors and casings.
These are a little trickier than slobbering paint on the walls.
1st More prep, More masking, start by taping off the knobs and door catches. Now do the hinges, I find it easier to determine if the hinges are already painted. If so, why bother, paint 'em. Wrap some tape around the knob part closet to the door. If you want to take them off, fine more work now easier painting. I just leave them on. After you taped them grab the masker and wrap a little around the tape, good enough to not see any knob. Roll the paper into itself to get the excess out of the way, then add a piece of tape to the paper to close it. The door latches can be masked using a putty knife, take a piece of 1 1/2" and cover the part on the wall, using the putty knife to act as a kinda of knife, or you can just cut it with a dry wall knife to get a cleaner edge, leaving only the metal covered. Next is the part on the door, I usually just slap a piece of tape over it and cut it in later, less trim work. If you are painting both sides do both sides. If not close the door for now (check other side for kids 1st). Put some masking paper on the floor under the door to catch that nasty spillage. Okay, we're almost ready. Get some 220 sandpaper and light sand the door and edges to "scuff them up" a little. If you have damage to the door now is the time to do the repair. Get the Spackle and put a light coat over the hole or whatever the problem may be. After drying and sanding, repeat to get a smooth surface. If it's a major problem you might want to replace it. Don't worry about the top of the door, (whose gonna see it)? Sand the casings the same way, "scuffing". Repeat process of Spackle if needed. I think that's enough for now, MY wife the " wise one " of blogs told me my 1st posting was to long. So we'll just come back and finish. Anyway we have to wait for dry time on any spackling. The door is still dry I hope. See ya'
About Me
- Repair Guy
- N Las Vegas, NV, United States
- I have been working on homes and the sort almost my whole life, I'm no expert, who is? I can walk you through that tile repair, garbage disposal and painting. The list is long, but not impossible! Lets get to it. Email Questions or Ideas to me at lvrepairguy@gmail.com
Showing posts with label Basic Painting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Basic Painting. Show all posts
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Basic Painting Enamel Pt. 2
Part 2: The painting part. Finally we're done with "prep". At this point I'm glad too.
I would suggest at this point to wipe any excess dust off the doors and casings. The cleaner the better. No bumps or "stuff" that can leave a lump after painting.
Okay the Spackle is done and dry, Now we need a decent brush and roller. The brush should be a good quality, the better, the nicer finish. Again the Purdy comes to mind, probably a 2 1/2" taper. You can also use the 1 1/2" taper. comfort, The "deuce" will also work fine for this. Take your paint and give it a good mix in the can, from bottom to top. Pour into the deuce, the roller should be a fine nap and very clean, dip into paint and roll on, (remember dip only enough to get bonnet wet). Don't use to much paint it will run a you! Okay it's rolled, do edges around knobs and the inside of where the jamb is. If you can, catch the casings at the same time. now you want to dry roll it back, this creates a stipple, this is important, it gives a smoother finish. Now cut in anything that is left, including casings. Now you want to lay off the casings, (go over again) with the brush to get that clean finish. If it all went well, your done. Give it a minute of two to set and dry roll it again. You see (real) tiny pot marks. that is ok it will dry smooth. Now the fun part again, clean up. (see clean up under basic painting, flat) You should have used water based paint, (I think that's all that available now). An environmental thing. By tomorrow the doors should look great! If not, I told you before get the pro! See Ya'
I would suggest at this point to wipe any excess dust off the doors and casings. The cleaner the better. No bumps or "stuff" that can leave a lump after painting.
Okay the Spackle is done and dry, Now we need a decent brush and roller. The brush should be a good quality, the better, the nicer finish. Again the Purdy comes to mind, probably a 2 1/2" taper. You can also use the 1 1/2" taper. comfort, The "deuce" will also work fine for this. Take your paint and give it a good mix in the can, from bottom to top. Pour into the deuce, the roller should be a fine nap and very clean, dip into paint and roll on, (remember dip only enough to get bonnet wet). Don't use to much paint it will run a you! Okay it's rolled, do edges around knobs and the inside of where the jamb is. If you can, catch the casings at the same time. now you want to dry roll it back, this creates a stipple, this is important, it gives a smoother finish. Now cut in anything that is left, including casings. Now you want to lay off the casings, (go over again) with the brush to get that clean finish. If it all went well, your done. Give it a minute of two to set and dry roll it again. You see (real) tiny pot marks. that is ok it will dry smooth. Now the fun part again, clean up. (see clean up under basic painting, flat) You should have used water based paint, (I think that's all that available now). An environmental thing. By tomorrow the doors should look great! If not, I told you before get the pro! See Ya'
Monday, November 2, 2009
Basic Painting
When you paint, the common problems are mess, clean-up, and proper way of doing it.
1st is Prep, this is the most important step to ensure being able to use the room after your done. Remove all light switch/wall plug covers, put them in a bowl/bucket, somewhere you can clean them later and not lose. Put the screws back in the wall, less chance of losing them. tape off the exposed sockets with masking, if your going to take more than a day to complete, use the blue tape, it doesn't leave a sticky mess. All you need to do is cover the actual plug/light switch and screw, that way when you paint there won't be any "cutting in" later. Next, remove the doorstops if you can, otherwise mask them. If you are going to paint the baseboards mask along the floor as close as you can, use tape, than a masker (they sell them at any Lowe's, Home Depot etc.) get a masker at least as big as to be able to use 12"-18" paper. if your not going to paint them mask about 1/2 way down the base. Next you want to get some plastic on a roll. If it's a small job just a package of disposable 9'x12' plastic tarp is good,(it's cheaper), normally this is for a single wall or small room. with the cheaper plastic just tape it to the paper you put on top of the tape line you created. You can always buy a fabric tarp, if you intend to use it more than once. If at all possible remove all furniture in the work area. If this isn't feasible, put all furniture in the middle of the room, for small jobs this doesn't need to be covered,. Spackle all your holes, some larger holes need more than one coat of Spackle. allow to dry, sand with 60 grit, repeat until it matches existing texture,(if your hanging the same pictures back don't remove the nails) if you're painting the whole room you might want to cover the furniture with old sheets/fabric/plastic tarp or the like. Remove any ceiling fixtures, blades from ceiling fans etc.. Sometimes it's easier to just cover the ceiling items with excess plastic and tape tight to prevent paint spatters. Finally, you will cover the floor with the plastic roll, it is usually in 50' or larger rolls and around 9' across. Staple it into the base loosely, removal of the staples later becomes easier this way (only on complete room painting). Mask off a line for any handrails, (than paper), molding, or rooms that are a different color. Make note that if it is a sharp corner (90°) this step may be unnecessary. rounded edges mask a line. Use the roller a little dry, (not dripping) when you start painting to roll up to. Cover the doorknobs if painting the wall above them. Use the masker to tape a piece over the knob,(it doesn't have to be perfect). Now we're ready to paint. Decide what size roller, 7", 9", or 12". For larger jobs use at least the 9" more coverage less strokes. For smaller ones use the 7". Getting a 5 gal. bucket is the best, no more trays! If you must, get a screen that fits inside the bucket. You will also need a 2 gal. bucket for cutting and smaller jobs. You can use the paint can, but a roller won't fit inside. (mix well all like colors together), this helps with different batches of paint. Okay, you've chosen the roller, the room is masked and your ready. Put your roller in the mixed paint, Get a short extension pole to attach to the end of your roller, this makes application easier, an adjustable or one that comes apart is okay too. It should be about 3-4' long. Your brush is important also, I would recommend a "purdy" they last a long time. You have to determine what size and the type (go to WWW.purdycorp.com/catalog/brushes/). I know, they are also a tip and trick place, but why buy a DVD? If your hand is steady you might try a 2 1/2" or 3" wide taper one. This is your choice. A smaller 1 1/12" taper if your new to painting, "block brushes" (big square ones) are good for corners and cutting in ceilings, if you are painting both with the same color as the walls. Attach the roller to the pole and put in paint only far enough to get the bonnet (actual roller) full of paint, bonnets will vary depending on the type of wall. heavy texture on the wall means a heavier nap on the bonnet. Smooth walls (rare) are a thin bonnet. Run it on the screen in the bucket to get off excess paint that will only drip anyhow. Immediately put the roller on the wall and make a slight 30° movement to the upper right or left,(this depends on if your right or left handed) about 5 to 8' up. Roll and fill in the space, up right, straight down, back left 10-15° straight down again, repeat, back to where you started. This takes a little practice to do, I have faith. Repeat this until the wall is covered and isn't running paint down all over, roll hard into the corners so you don't have to cut them in later. If only doing one wall be careful not to splatter on the other walls, a slightly dry roller helps with corners. rest your roller in the paint can "trying" not let it sink all the way down,there is a lip on the roller to hook on bucket. Take off the pole. you won't need it for now and you won't trip over it either. This helps with clean up later. Now grab your brush and can, fill a little in the bottom just enough to get the brush wet(about 2-2 1/2"). Keep the brush above the Ferrule, ( metal top between brush and handle) This will help in paint from running down your hand. Tap the brush inside the can to get excess paint off. Cut the inside corners, along the base and along the ceiling. If done right this involves little paint as the roller got most of it,(the corners should still be wet) use the excess already on the wall. Slobber in the paint!
check for coverage and touch up "holidays" (missed spots on wall). rest brush in can and wait a few minutes to check again,(always check your shoe bottoms to prevent footprints everywhere other than the tarp)! take a break, and have your wife look at it for her okay! If all went well we're ready for cleanup. 1st take the brush and roller outside near a hose away from the house. leave in the 5 gal. bucket for now,leave the brush in the 2 gal.bucket (called a deuce). go back and remove the tarps, than pull the staples from the base and roll the plastic and paper into itself until you have a ball. put it in the trash. by now the walls are probably different shades, this is normal as paint dries uneven. Enamel is worse, if not scary when drying. check for "holidays" again, if your happy, remove the tape from everywhere but the base, this should dry a tad longer,(about as long as it takes to ball plastic, just enough to pull the tape and not the paint). Cut in the base very carefully! If your still happy remove the base tape. If you got a little on the floor use a putty knife and cover with rag to wipe up. I know this won't happen to you! Remove any tape and plastic, and paper from anywhere it is left. The room/wall is done! Congrats. so far! Now for tool cleanup, this is very important keep them clean and they last,(except the bonnets) I've had my rollers and brushes for some 20 years. pour all paint into original can, scrape the buckets with the brush into original can. Tap lid closed. Now clean the inside of your buckets 1st. scrape with a putty knife if needed. get them clean. Put water into the 5 about 2 gal.s push the brush up and down touching the bottom of bucket until the water is dirty throw away water, squeeze the bristles, refill, Repeat until the brush comes back clean. Spin the brush inside the bucket until the bristles are going in different directions. Now get a clean wire brush, if needed wire brush the Ferrule, remove all paint from the bristles using the wire brush until smooth( stroke all in the same direction, (down and away), and free of paint, Put brush back in cover. Now the roller. pull down the bonnet holding the metal part of the handle with opposite hand until it's about 1/3 down, (I know a little paint on the hands), rest it on the metal part on the outside of the bucket. get a hose with high pressure nozzle. holding the roller against the side away from you, spray the bonnet with the hose until it spins, going up and down on the roller until it comes back clean this takes some time to get it clean but if done right, your dry. take the roller with the bonnet still loose hang it on the side to dry. by now you are done or called a professional in. I always suggest a pro. if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, or you have a couple extra hundreds laying around. E-mail me I'm always looking for some side work! Let me know how it goes there is always room for improvement here and in your other endeavors. You are now an apprentice painter. Next doors and "casings" (molding around doors) See ya' then!
1st is Prep, this is the most important step to ensure being able to use the room after your done. Remove all light switch/wall plug covers, put them in a bowl/bucket, somewhere you can clean them later and not lose. Put the screws back in the wall, less chance of losing them. tape off the exposed sockets with masking, if your going to take more than a day to complete, use the blue tape, it doesn't leave a sticky mess. All you need to do is cover the actual plug/light switch and screw, that way when you paint there won't be any "cutting in" later. Next, remove the doorstops if you can, otherwise mask them. If you are going to paint the baseboards mask along the floor as close as you can, use tape, than a masker (they sell them at any Lowe's, Home Depot etc.) get a masker at least as big as to be able to use 12"-18" paper. if your not going to paint them mask about 1/2 way down the base. Next you want to get some plastic on a roll. If it's a small job just a package of disposable 9'x12' plastic tarp is good,(it's cheaper), normally this is for a single wall or small room. with the cheaper plastic just tape it to the paper you put on top of the tape line you created. You can always buy a fabric tarp, if you intend to use it more than once. If at all possible remove all furniture in the work area. If this isn't feasible, put all furniture in the middle of the room, for small jobs this doesn't need to be covered,. Spackle all your holes, some larger holes need more than one coat of Spackle. allow to dry, sand with 60 grit, repeat until it matches existing texture,(if your hanging the same pictures back don't remove the nails) if you're painting the whole room you might want to cover the furniture with old sheets/fabric/plastic tarp or the like. Remove any ceiling fixtures, blades from ceiling fans etc.. Sometimes it's easier to just cover the ceiling items with excess plastic and tape tight to prevent paint spatters. Finally, you will cover the floor with the plastic roll, it is usually in 50' or larger rolls and around 9' across. Staple it into the base loosely, removal of the staples later becomes easier this way (only on complete room painting). Mask off a line for any handrails, (than paper), molding, or rooms that are a different color. Make note that if it is a sharp corner (90°) this step may be unnecessary. rounded edges mask a line. Use the roller a little dry, (not dripping) when you start painting to roll up to. Cover the doorknobs if painting the wall above them. Use the masker to tape a piece over the knob,(it doesn't have to be perfect). Now we're ready to paint. Decide what size roller, 7", 9", or 12". For larger jobs use at least the 9" more coverage less strokes. For smaller ones use the 7". Getting a 5 gal. bucket is the best, no more trays! If you must, get a screen that fits inside the bucket. You will also need a 2 gal. bucket for cutting and smaller jobs. You can use the paint can, but a roller won't fit inside. (mix well all like colors together), this helps with different batches of paint. Okay, you've chosen the roller, the room is masked and your ready. Put your roller in the mixed paint, Get a short extension pole to attach to the end of your roller, this makes application easier, an adjustable or one that comes apart is okay too. It should be about 3-4' long. Your brush is important also, I would recommend a "purdy" they last a long time. You have to determine what size and the type (go to WWW.purdycorp.com/catalog/brushes/). I know, they are also a tip and trick place, but why buy a DVD? If your hand is steady you might try a 2 1/2" or 3" wide taper one. This is your choice. A smaller 1 1/12" taper if your new to painting, "block brushes" (big square ones) are good for corners and cutting in ceilings, if you are painting both with the same color as the walls. Attach the roller to the pole and put in paint only far enough to get the bonnet (actual roller) full of paint, bonnets will vary depending on the type of wall. heavy texture on the wall means a heavier nap on the bonnet. Smooth walls (rare) are a thin bonnet. Run it on the screen in the bucket to get off excess paint that will only drip anyhow. Immediately put the roller on the wall and make a slight 30° movement to the upper right or left,(this depends on if your right or left handed) about 5 to 8' up. Roll and fill in the space, up right, straight down, back left 10-15° straight down again, repeat, back to where you started. This takes a little practice to do, I have faith. Repeat this until the wall is covered and isn't running paint down all over, roll hard into the corners so you don't have to cut them in later. If only doing one wall be careful not to splatter on the other walls, a slightly dry roller helps with corners. rest your roller in the paint can "trying" not let it sink all the way down,there is a lip on the roller to hook on bucket. Take off the pole. you won't need it for now and you won't trip over it either. This helps with clean up later. Now grab your brush and can, fill a little in the bottom just enough to get the brush wet(about 2-2 1/2"). Keep the brush above the Ferrule, ( metal top between brush and handle) This will help in paint from running down your hand. Tap the brush inside the can to get excess paint off. Cut the inside corners, along the base and along the ceiling. If done right this involves little paint as the roller got most of it,(the corners should still be wet) use the excess already on the wall. Slobber in the paint!
check for coverage and touch up "holidays" (missed spots on wall). rest brush in can and wait a few minutes to check again,(always check your shoe bottoms to prevent footprints everywhere other than the tarp)! take a break, and have your wife look at it for her okay! If all went well we're ready for cleanup. 1st take the brush and roller outside near a hose away from the house. leave in the 5 gal. bucket for now,leave the brush in the 2 gal.bucket (called a deuce). go back and remove the tarps, than pull the staples from the base and roll the plastic and paper into itself until you have a ball. put it in the trash. by now the walls are probably different shades, this is normal as paint dries uneven. Enamel is worse, if not scary when drying. check for "holidays" again, if your happy, remove the tape from everywhere but the base, this should dry a tad longer,(about as long as it takes to ball plastic, just enough to pull the tape and not the paint). Cut in the base very carefully! If your still happy remove the base tape. If you got a little on the floor use a putty knife and cover with rag to wipe up. I know this won't happen to you! Remove any tape and plastic, and paper from anywhere it is left. The room/wall is done! Congrats. so far! Now for tool cleanup, this is very important keep them clean and they last,(except the bonnets) I've had my rollers and brushes for some 20 years. pour all paint into original can, scrape the buckets with the brush into original can. Tap lid closed. Now clean the inside of your buckets 1st. scrape with a putty knife if needed. get them clean. Put water into the 5 about 2 gal.s push the brush up and down touching the bottom of bucket until the water is dirty throw away water, squeeze the bristles, refill, Repeat until the brush comes back clean. Spin the brush inside the bucket until the bristles are going in different directions. Now get a clean wire brush, if needed wire brush the Ferrule, remove all paint from the bristles using the wire brush until smooth( stroke all in the same direction, (down and away), and free of paint, Put brush back in cover. Now the roller. pull down the bonnet holding the metal part of the handle with opposite hand until it's about 1/3 down, (I know a little paint on the hands), rest it on the metal part on the outside of the bucket. get a hose with high pressure nozzle. holding the roller against the side away from you, spray the bonnet with the hose until it spins, going up and down on the roller until it comes back clean this takes some time to get it clean but if done right, your dry. take the roller with the bonnet still loose hang it on the side to dry. by now you are done or called a professional in. I always suggest a pro. if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, or you have a couple extra hundreds laying around. E-mail me I'm always looking for some side work! Let me know how it goes there is always room for improvement here and in your other endeavors. You are now an apprentice painter. Next doors and "casings" (molding around doors) See ya' then!
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