Money Savers

When was the last time you checked your filters for the air/furnace? If you don't remember, it's time. Get the old ones out and clean or replace them now! Look at the existing filter for the size and direction it goes. Before summer hits. They should be done once a month unless you have the 3 mth. kind. If you see a dirt spray path coming from the vents, your really ready, do it now!! This is a big money saver on buying new units and bad air! It also saves having to have your vents cleaned. While your at it clean the exterior vent with a vacuum, (the vent that covers the filter). You can buy permanent type filters at the hardware store, that you only have to spray off and let dry. In the long run they save money too!

Money Savers

Turn off all "not in use" appliances to save on energy. Get some of those funny looking bulbs, but make sure to replace all on the same cord/circuit, like the lights in the ceiling, (if you don't they will burn out faster, if mixed w/regular bulbs). Save the box they came in as when they do burn out the company, should replace them for the price of shipping. They will ask for the date on the bulb.

Money Savers

Screws:
Whenever I do a repair, I try to use as many existing screws, nuts, and bolts as possible. Check for wear and tear on them. If they look okay, why not? Save the new ones for down the road.

Money Savers

Got a key that is hard to make it work in the lock? Maybe, The handle is tough to turn.
Graphite, it's a little tube of black stuff (graphite) that you nip off the end of the tube and spray a very small amount directly into the lock. It works great on cars also. It also works on door hinges, just be sure and shoot it where nobody can see it, behind the door. This is another one of those items you should keep around the house, It has many more uses.

Winter Checklist

Winter Wonderland
Well, with the weather turning unseasonable. Now is a good time to double check things around the house, Unless your interested in starting a project right before Xmas? Climb into the attic area to see if there any water,snow leaks, if it's too cold to repair mark them with a marker, chalk etc. Make a note of this, (spring project). Again make sure you disconnect all hoses, blah, blah. Check your filters and make sure the thermostat we installed is, and on heat. Check your fireplace for a lot of creosote soot/nasty stuff, if need be you can clean it or get a chimney sweep, yes, they're still around. I've seen those logs you can burn, but I can't guarantee their usefulness, check with the hardware guy at your local store. Some work some don't. Make sure the oven is clean before cooking the holiday feast, nothing worse that smokey burnt food! Check the fluids, brakes, tires, WINDSHIELD wipers , blinkers ,tail and headlights in your car. This would be a bad time to breakdown. Have an emergency kit in the car, Blanket, flares, working flashlight, tire flat-fix, shovel (for you snowed in souls) extra car charger for the cell. Look for candles that are pretty much past their prime, replace them I know you want your house warm, but I hope not this way! Look for loose wires, bad connections on the Xmas lights in and out. Put a shot of vodka in the water in your tree, another fire hazard! Check for air leaks, bottom of doors, windows etc. air escaping is expensive, and like air conditioning you can neither heat nor cool the outside, no matter how much you try. Make sure you have propane for the grill. I know it's cold stay by the grill you'll be warm enough. Check on that elderly neighbor, make sure they have everything they need and their warm enough. They make great neighborhood watches! Make sure their heat is on and the pilot is also on. C'mon take a look at their filter too!

Money Savers

Tools:
I think I told you to try and buy a new tool with each project you work on, (good way to get them). If not, now I have. Honey, I need that special tool to repair that (fill in tool/project here). After awhile the questions stop, especially if your fixing stuff. Another idea is to ask for them on your birthday, Christmas (or your particular holiday). A good collection of tools, kept clean and in good working order will save time and money. It also looks cool to your garage buddies!

Money Savers

Thermostats:
1st thing you want to do is call your local electric co., in Las Vegas they will come out and replace your thermostat for free and install a device that will control your air conditioner during the summer, (it turns it off for about a 1/2 hr. during the hottest part of the day). But normally once it's set by them you never need to open the little door again. From here on you just push the buttons on the right to adjust , heat, top button, Air, bottom button. The electric co's. will love you for this. If they don't offer this service. I will walk you through it in an upcoming blog. I know, it will be cold soon.

Tile Repair Part 1

Tile:
Chipped, Broken, Missing, cracked or a hollow sound?
I'll walk you through this.
Now remember this is one of the more expensive repairs around the house.You need an assortment of tools. (See photo 1).→
The hollow sound is because the adhesive didn't bond with the floor/tile. Tap on the tile it will sound hollow! If it's cracked this could be an additional headache, most likely the floor has a crack also. This must be fixed prior to setting any new tiles, they will just crack again. You need to patch the floor over the crack w/ mesh tape
(See Photo) 2→
Use a little thinset on the floor and spread over the tape. This should prevent any cracks down the road.
1st: Do you have the original tiles for replacement? I sure hope so, because it's almost impossible to find a couple of new tiles that will match. You might have to take out more tiles and create a design of sorts to make it look right. I hope not, normally when tile is set the 1st time they leave a couple of tiles just for this. Next would be grout, now this isn't as critical as the original tiles, it might as well be. You can match the grout down the road, but it's a little tougher, you may have to play with the color a bit to get it to match. You know a sample of this and that, kinda thing. With any luck you have some old grout laying around next to those tiles! Next would be the size and the ability to cut to size the replacement tile(s). You can rent a wet saw at the old faithful hardware store, or some Home Depots will do the cut for you if you mark off the actual cut yourself, (sorry they don't come to the house and mark it). They also make cutting boards for straight cuts, (See Photo 3) → this you have to buy. You will need a pointer, (a type of putty knife), (See photo 4)↓
spacers, measure the distance of the grout already between your existing tiles for the size. They are standard sizes, 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", etc.
If there are going to be cuts. Nippers, you know ask! (See Photo 5)→
an old bucket, (this will depend on how much repair is needed. Small job small bucket, 2 gal. Large job, 5 gal. Get a bag/box of "thin set" don't worry about the color! this is basically the glue (ask). It comes as a powder that you add water and an acrylic additive, (again ask) some thin sets come pre-mixed w/ it. A sponge, when you get in the aisle, they are always there, their yellowish-orange, rubber gloves, no, not the ones that are surgical, the kind your mom washed the dishes in.
Get a rubber"float" this is used for grouting, (photo 6)↓
and knee pads, they aren't critical, but save your knees,(you can use the seat pad you take to the ball game, or a thick towel). Next how big is the tile?
We'll start with the floor repair.
You'll need a notched trowel for larger jobs,(photo 7)→
but for a couple of tiles you can use the pointer.
Okay, We're ready to start.
1st: Get a hammer, PLEASE get safety glasses , and an old towel, rag, etc. Lay the rag over the tile and smack it in the center w/ the hammer, not enough to send a nail through a wall, but hard enough to break the tile.Remove the towel is it cracked? Good, now remove the big pieces carefully, they might be sharp on the edge. Try to not break any areas that are "cuts". The part that might go under the door frame, dishwasher etc. This will save some time later. Get all the pieces out using the pointer as a scraper. Be careful not to disturb the surrounding tiles (you know how neighbor tiles can get)! It must be really clean and free of any stuff. A vacuum comes in handy here (be sure and get the pieces that flew away from the work area) or ouch! later. Scrape the old grout off the floor (pointer again) see how handy that tool is! When the floor is clean take the sponge and a clean bucket of water and wipe out the area, Let this set until it's dry. Do all tiles at the same time, When we start the reset, you don't want to stop to pop another tile. Check for hollow ones also. Some say you can use an oil based paint to just color the chip. Come on, We're gonna do this right! Next resetting. See ya' then!

Tile Repair Part 2

Okay, the area is clean, Now wipe it again with the sponge, I know, but I want it really clean. Make any cuts before proceeding, ( See tile repair part 1). Tile cutting is a little tricky, but can be done w/ some help.
These are just general types of cuts, E-mail me with difficult ones. I can photo you through these. Use the nippers (photo 3). →
for any uneven cuts, (∟←) like this. In the corner could be a chunk left from the saw. Sand the entire edge to get it kinda smooth, they make a stone for this too, (but you can use a smooth file). Mix a little thin set and acrylic adhesive, pour a little adhesive in 1st, maybe a cup, (cuts down on dust) Don't breath this or the thin set dust in! Better to mix it outside in the air. If it's a small job, (a few tiles) you can use the pointer, (there it is again)! Now add some thin set about 6 cups, to get a creamy mixture, like frosting, add some water for consistency, the pointer should stand up like in chili. Not to thin /thick kinda thing. Make enough to do the entire job. This takes a little thinking not to mix to much or to little. Adjust as needed.
If it's a lot of tiles 6-7 or more, you might think about renting a 1/2" drive drill w/ side handle and the "paddle". Because the amount of mortar will be more, and the mixing will be a pain.
(see photo 4) →
Good, now "butter" the back of the tile, like toast don't be shy, get enough on there, trust me by the 2nd tile you'll know how much. set the tile in, push down and run your hand over it and the surrounding tiles to make sure their the same height. See you put to much mortar in, pop the tile and remove some. If you have a little that leaked out the sides use the pointer to clean the inside edge. or a small screw driver works. Don't forget to clean the screw driver. Add the spacers 1 on each side in the middle to "square up" the tile so it's even all the way around. You can also put a spacer in the corners to adjust spacing, (→ ∟). Do this for all tiles until down. Tape off the area you just did so's not to step on them! ↑ We're down for today, as the tiles need to set. Clean the bucket and all the tools you used, Reminder ♫ they will last longer!
Next we'll grout!

Tile Repair Part 3

Okay, the tiles are set and the thin set hard.
1st, remove the spacers with needle nose pliers, be careful not to chip that tile you just replaced! Wipe all the tiles with clean water. Again, cleanliness is next to... But enough of the philosophy lesson, that's a different blog. We're ready to grout. Mix enough grout w/ water to do the whole job (you can add some latex additive here). Mix almost as thick as the thin set. Get the float
and blop some grout on the tiles(s), spread it around making sure to fill in the spaces between the tiles, this is important! Let it set a little, then get the float and clean up any excess you have, put this back in the bucket. Only do a few tiles at a time, you don't want the grout drying (if it does start, add some water). Keep cleaning until all the excess grout is gone, use the sponge to make the level of grout in between appear as the existing grout. This can be done by using a slightly wet sponge and working it in the spaces. The tiles should look clean and wet. After a while they will cloud up a little ( drying), a clean rag or better yet, some cheesecloth will solve this. Wait until completely dry and wipe them off. It might take a couple of passes to get them clean. Now here some pros use a sealant (after the grout is dry). Your call. The grout is going to stain down the road anyway, even w/ the sealant. If it's light colored grout it's probably a different color/shade anyhow. It will match as the tile gets walked on and mopped. Again stay off tiles until dry.
Clean up like usual, blah, blah. Next wall tile. See ya'

Fix It Tips

Duct Tape:
Can't say enough about it, always keep a roll on hand. This is a real lifesaver! It can put a temp. fix on almost anything. Put a roll in your car, it works until you can get it done right. Although I don't know how long the lifespan is in below freezing weather. I do know it stops leaks! Holds mufflers on, repairs that tear, even works as a band-aid™.

Thermostat

Thermostat:
Brrr... It must be time to check this.
This is a relatively easy replacement.
What kind do you have now, dial, electronic w/ LED/LCD readout?
See Photo 1 →
No matter, we can change out either. (Note): If you live somewhere that the power co. will replace and install it, like Las Vegas, sometimes free! Have them do it, they normally will ask you if they can also install a power saver that shuts off the air conditioner during the summer. See Photo 1A↓
Ask about this. Call them, it can't hurt.
1st, We'll start with the easy one. LED/LCD readout.
I would suggest getting an LED-LCD readout to save some energy, (aka: electric bill). Most likely the one you have isn't working properly or you just want to upgrade. Look at the existing one to see where the screws that attach it to the wall are.
See Photo 2→

Usually under the plastic cover, or under the dial. You'll need to pop this off to get underneath. There might be a small prong type thing attaching the front-plate to the back-plate.
Photo 2↑



See Photo 3→
Be careful not to break the prongs, pull out slow and easy. Next remove the battery (if it has one). See the wires or a little black rectangular box? Good, Now we're ready for removal.
Unscrew it to detach the plate from the wall, you will see wires on the backside that are color coded. You might need to loosen the little screws See Photo4↓
and insert the wires from the backside of the wall plate. Match these wires to the new one you have in hand. Y,C,R,G,W,O. Disconnect the wires from existing and connect the wires to the new one, This process should be the same with either the led, or old rotary dial type, (when was your house built)? Some will require you to unscrew the little screws on the front part of the back-plate to install the wires (from the back side). See Photo 4→
Re-tighten the screws, I suggest you do one screw at a time to hold each in place. They should be relatively the same or the little book that came with it will show you the diagram for connection. Now screw it back on the wall using the existing holes. Pretty simple, huh? Now comes the fun part of setting the new one.
See Ya' Then

Thermostat

So you got it in, good now lets set it and forget it.
1st: Does it work? So far so good.When setting normally you have some choices to make, one is the daily setting. See Photo →
Time, most of the new ones set this automatically. If not look inside the door (if it has one), and set the time to actual + am or pm.
Wake, What time do you get up? When you know set the program to this, EX. 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 am. You get up at 6 and leave by 7. Simple enough.
Day, Set this to the time no one is home and the house can be either colder or hotter depending what season your in. EX. 7:15 am to 4:00 pm. The same process as wake.
Evening, This is when your going to be home the longest period before bed. EX. 4:15 pm to 10:00 pm. Set same as before.
Sleep, When your in bed and can set it to colder or warmer, again depending on the season. EX. 10:15 pm to 6:00 am. Your now done setting the daily. Do this for every day of the work week.
Weekends, This only has a couple of settings. wake and sleep. EX. 6:00 am to 10:00 pm.
Sleep, Same as wake, EX. 10:00 pm to 6:00 am. Do this for sat. and sun. your done, pretty easy huh? Set the program to Auto. Close the little door and don't open it again!
From here you use the 2 buttons to adjust as needed. to cold, press the top button for more heat, hot, press the lower button for air.
The newer thermostats will walk you through the set up process
See Photo→

You also have the choice of the "hold" button inside the door, this will override your settings until you press it again to release. This doesn't affect the permanent settings you programmed
in.
Some thermostats come w/ the feature of "clean filter", on this you push the rest filter every time you clean the filter and replace it. Again newer ones also have "copy previous day" feature, this is a step saver when you program it.

Money Savers

Own your home? Don't forget to save all the receipts. Categorize them as: Maintenance, Repair, and Improvement. Repair and maint. use every year on your tax returns. Improvement are for when you sell. then you can use them. Don't own, no problem! You can still use them as receipts to give your landlord for out of pocket expenses, use them monthly.

Fix It Tips

Got an old paint brush that just doesn't work well anymore? Save it as a duster! You'd be surprised how many things you can dust with it.

Money Savers

Got a cat? Save that litter container! It works just as well as a 5 gal. bucket for painting, or other uses. Including holding water.

Fix It Tips

Tired of dragging out that ladder every time a light bulb burns out? They have a tool for that! Get it at your hardware store. It's a light bulb pole. Buy the deluxe one, You'll know it by the color (yellow) it has all the attachments you probably need. It should be around $20.00.

Plumbing Tank and Bowl

Tank and Bowl:
Bummer, by now you most likely have water everywhere! Turn off the water supply, (see Plumbing part 1). This will stop the leak. If there is any water in the bowl flush to remove the water, disconnect the water supply, (prt. 1 again) put a rag on the floor it might drip. Get that friend again and see (part 2). Don't take this part w/ you, it's heavy and you don't want to look like your new at this. Take a photo instead, I just love the new digital cameras! Now comes decision time. How much to spend on a new one, Sorry that's your call. The hardware store will have a comparison chart to help with this, make sure the new one comes with a new wax ring, (your gonna need it). Your home? Good, Take it out of the box and inspect for cracks and flaws. Reverse the order of the removal and your done! Call the pro if your unsure about this, these things are expensive depending on which type you get. Next sinks! See Ya'

Plumbing Toilet Lid

The Lid is cracked:
It's probably pinching your underside. Or it's visible to the naked eye.
There are 2 screws that hold it on. You'll need a large screwdriver. Lift the little flaps and you can see the screws. Loosen them until the part (looks like a circle w/ a lip) releases from the bottom under the bowl. Remove the old lid. Determine if your lid is standard or elongated, you need the same type. Take it with you if unsure, ( they have garbage cans too)! Compare the new lid to the old one for the same type. The price will vary depending on how much comfort you want, and the guarantee. Your home again? good, put the new lid on and replace the screws, you might need to hold the one part underneath the bowl until it catches. Your done. No pro needed here! See Ya'

Plumbing Part 1

"The Toilet"
Never leave home w/o it, (working)!
So your having a problem with it. No surprise, with all we put down them (toys, golf balls etc.) What did you expect?
1st:
Does it leak? Okay where? The floor at the base, bottom under the tank, shooting out of the top when you open it to locate that running water sound, overflow!!
We'' ll cover these 1st.
The base,
Does it wiggle when you give it a really slight push side to side? okay, check the floor bolts they could be loose. No huh, it's never that easy. If this doesn't fix it, you could have a bad "wax ring". This involves removing the bowl and tank. Get a friend, that thing is heavy! 1st drain it, this is the easy part. Turn off the water supply, (under the tank on the wall) it looks like a valve, done? Now flush the toilet, it will drain but won't refill. Now take a little less than a 1/2 gal. of water and pour it into the bowl, this should get rid of any water left. Unscrew the line from bottom of tank. put a bowl under it, you might get a little water from here, Good, we're ready to remove the floor bolts, you can use a ratchet, open/closed end wrench, or if nothing else works pliers or adjustable wrench. Wiggle the bowl to loosen, it should come free fairly easily. Tilt it forward. Get that friend and lift the bowl & tank off the floor out of the way. You should now see, what appears to be a nasty waxy mess at the hole in the floor. Scrape off the old ring with a flat stick, that paint stirrer you got w/ the paint you bought earlier. Remove the black or white plastic piece inside the hole. Look to see if the "flange"(metal part holding the bolts to the floor) is slightly elevated, small gap btwn. floor & flange. Go to the store and buy wax ring, their fairly universal in size, get the one w/ the sleeve if your "flange" is slightly elevated. W/O the sleeve, if it's flush w/ the floor, Take a photo of the floor bolts (reassembly made easy). Remove all plastic, wrapping etc. from new ring, put it where the old one went, (center it), make sure you can still see the bolts & they point up. Okay, now set the bowl/tank on the new ring, make sure the bolts are there thru the holes on base, push down on it to get it to "seat" wiggle it a bit and push down until it sits. You might have to push down strongly. It shouldn't be more than an 1/8"- 1/4" off the floor now. Add the nuts you removed earlier. tighten them until the bowl seats okay. You shouldn't see a gap on the floor. Tighten a little more if you do. now make sure the bowl/tank is secure, (no movement, wiggly etc.) Tighten a little more. Reattach the hose to the bottom. Now caulk around the base for a cleaner look, normally white, (match your floor color). Cool your done! Next, bottom under the tank. See Ya'